RE: My $500.00 almost silent generator with pic.&db readings
I would just be guessing that it was fuel boiling that caused it to stumble. However, it recovered immediately when the load was reduced from 2600W to 1600W.
Generator-guy said that his unit produced 3300W at 50 degrees F at about sea level.
If I reduced his output by 3.5% per 1000 ft. elevation and 2% per 10 degree F temperature rise, I should have a max of about 2850W. That's close to my measurement of 2900W using my inexpensive measurement equipment.
Check your engine RPM or Hz if you can. Does your carb throttle plate open completely? Maybe its normal to have 10% output variation. My last thought is to call or e-mail Paul Cole for his evaluation of your lower output. He most certainly has a wealth of experience with these generators.
RE: My $500.00 almost silent generator with pic.&db readings
I'm glad to see your temp data, Brad.
Your altitude is about 1320 ft. above sea level vs. my 1470 ft. Close enough to the same for our testing. It looks like your temps are very similar to mine once you adjust for ambient differences. Our hot air exhaust outlets are very different but both perform the same. That's good to know since it gives two different exit sides that work for compartment designs that may require using one or the other based on one's unique installation parameters.
I was surprised that you could only handle a 2650 watt load. I was able to carry about 2950 watts. The genset would stall at 3000 watts. However, it only handled 2600 watts for 30 minutes in the closed compartment before it started to stumble.
RE: My $500.00 almost silent generator with pic.&db readings
Floyd,
Thanks for the temp info. You confirmed what I expected. The muffler heats up the side of the genhead to a very high temperature. The windings apparently can take those temps over an extended period of time. Otherwise, these generators would have a high failure rate.
RE: My $500.00 almost silent generator with pic.&db readings
The following describes my latest enclosure. It incorporates some of the ideas of Brad, Professor Randy, Floyd and others who have contributed their knowledge on enclosures. I posted a sketch of my design in this forum about 6 months ago. This is the final product with some modifications from that original sketch. I have posted this info in the 3000W Chinese Gensets forum but decided that it should also be posted here because the original design sketch was posted in this forum.
Materials were “re-purposed” as much as possible while building this iteration. It has been in use for the last couple of months. I concluded that this enclosure was good to about 100 degrees ambient at 2000 watts generator output. This is enough to run my 5ver’s 15k BTU A/C unit. At this ambient temperature, it is necessary to shut the AC off to run the microwave. The combination of the two requires about 3200 watts. Testing showed that my Champion genset reached its maximum output of 2900 watts at 100 degrees ambient. Running both loads together resulted in the engine rpm lugging down and the voltage dropping from 120v to 103v. Frequency also was reduced due to the loss of engine rpm but was not measured.
Now, the disclaimer:
THIS ENCLOSURE WAS BUILT SOLELY FOR THE USE OF THE WRITER. OTHERS WHO ATTEMPT TO BUILD A SIMILAR ENCLOSURE DO SO AT THEIR OWN RISK. VARIATIONS IN THE DESIGN AND USE OF THE ENCLOSURE INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO AIRFLOW, GENERATOR LOAD, AMBIENT TEMPERATURE, ALTITUDE, EXHAUST TEMPS, AND NOISE ABATEMENT WILL AFFECT THE ABILITY OF THE ENCLOSURE TO SAFELY HOUSE THE GENERATOR.
The main reason for this latest iteration was to move the gas tank out of the enclosure and have it located in a lower temperature environment. Last winter my wife’s microwave oven decided to quit working. I disassembled the corpse for useful parts. The outer housing was steel measuring 25” long, 17” deep and 14” high or just the right size to house the engine and generator head of my Champion genset. The fuel tank and control panel were raised 6” to allow clearance to the top of the new enclosure. Miscellaneous openings in the rear panel of the re-purposed microwave housing were covered with metal foil tape except for one opening located below of the engine air cleaner inlet to allow intake of cool engine combustion air.
The fuel hose and electrical wiring were routed through the rear panel of the enclosure. The rear panel separates from the rest of the enclosure and stays with the generator when the enclosure is removed. This allows for quick removal of the enclosure for any work needed on the genset or to operate the generator without the enclosure. With the enclosure installed, the front enclosure panel slides sideways to allow for checking the oil, operating the choke and using the recoil starter.
To improve airflow and reduce cooling air re-circulation, the bottom of the enclosure was closed and air intake ducts were fabricated for the engine and generator head. The generator head duct inlet also had a booster fan incorporated to improve the cooling airflow through the generator head. Tests confirmed that the 300 cfm exhaust fan produced a negative pressure inside of the enclosure. Enclosure openings and clearance slots were sealed to force almost all of the air to enter through the cooling air ducts except for the air cleaner intake air opening in the rear of the enclosure.
The exhaust piping inside the compartment was insulated with high temp fiberglass insulation re-purposed from an oven to reduce heat load in the compartment. The muffler was insulated and wrapped to reduce heat transfer and noise. A piece of 1/4” thick hardbacker board was added between the insulated exhaust pipe and the genhead to reduce the exhaust heat load on the generator windings.
Tests were conducted to measure the capabilities of this enclosure. These were completed at an average ambient temperature of 98 degrees at 1470 feet above sea level. The unit was in a shaded environment to eliminate sun load, which in Arizona can add 30 degrees to the surface temperature of an enclosure or fuel tank. Electrical loads were 2600 watts and 1600 watts for the first test and 2200 watts for the second test.
During the first test, the generator ran for 30 minutes at 2600 watts before it started to stumble. The load was immediately and arbitrarily reduced to 1600 watts by turning off the leaf blower and leaving the air compressor load running. The test continued for another 30 minutes without any further problems with the maximum temperatures dropping and stabilizing. At 1600 watts, the air temp above the engine stabilized at 160 degrees, above the genhead at 140 degrees and enclosure exit air at 150 degrees. Test time was 60 minutes under load, 15 minutes running with cooling fans load (110watts) and 15 minutes with the engine off and cooling fans running. Enclosure cooling was extremely effective after the engine was stopped and the cooling fans continued running.
The second test was completed at an electrical load of 2200 watts. It was terminated after temps were stable for 4 consecutive readings taken at 5-minute intervals. Total test time was 45 minutes under load and 15 minutes for cool down with the engine off and the enclosure cooling fans running. The stabilized engine air, genhead air and exiting air temperatures were 156, 145 and 152 degrees respectively measured in the same locations as the first test.
The fuel tank temperature after the tests was between 110 and 118 degrees. Under direct sun load, it would have been in the 140 degrees range and probably 150 degrees if it was still mounted inside of the generator enclosure.
Temperature graphs and other data from the tests are included along with the pictures. The pictures were taken while the generator and enclosure were mounted on a temporary test stand base.
This design was a success for me in that it allowed me to operate my RV air conditioning at 100 degrees ambient with the enclosed generator. At a 75-80 degree ambient, both the A/C and the microwave can be run together for short periods probably due to reduced air conditioning power requirement and increased generator output. The maximum electrical load at high ambient temps should be limited to about 1800-2000 watts. My 5ver’s A/C and enclosure cooling fans use about 1800 watts at 100 degrees ambient. Of course, the refrigerator and hot water tank are on propane and the battery charger is turned off while the generator is being used for the A/C at high ambient temperatures.
Someone may have noticed that I continue to run the 120v cooling fans after stopping the generator. This is accomplished by using a 2500-watt inverter and RV batteries. The inverter is wired into the generator control panel. The 3 way toggle switch on the panel acts as a transfer switch with one position for the 120v generator, center position off, and the other position for the 110v inverter. This also allows me to use the inverter to run the microwave and entertainment system in the RV through the same wiring that the generator uses.
Sound reduction was not a priority with this enclosure. I am satisfied that it is in the low 60’s dBA (by subjective evaluation). If I would try to lower the noise level further, I would add ¼” thick hardbacker to all of the enclosure’s surfaces. This would add about 20 lbs. to the enclosure.
Future improvements will include a 160-degree enclosure air temp automatic generator shut down switch and improved exhaust piping temperature insulation. Brad noted that his exhaust pipe insulation was cool enough to touch. Mine isn’t. If I can get the insulation surface temperature cool enough (like Brad’s), I will remove the hardbacker heat barrier between the exhaust and the genhead.
Finally, I will consider switching to a dual fuel system of propane and gasoline following Professor Randy’s instructions in his propane conversion thread.
Now, here is a request for temperature data.
The generator head temperatures were measured during the second test just after the 2200-watt load was removed. The temperature was a respectable 123 degrees near the AVR but 190 degrees on the sheet metal windings cover near the top of the genhead by the long mounting bolt on the exhaust side of the genhead.
I am requesting that forum readers with the Champion 3500 watt generator in its original factory configuration measure the temperature of their genhead at this same location (see picture for the exact location) after about 30 minutes of operation and either send their temp info to me in a PM or just report it in this forum.
I would like to confirm that the 190-degree temp at this location is typical of the OEM configuration due to both the engine and muffler heat load on the genhead. If this temp is not typical, I will address the exhaust pipe insulation improvement soon.
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g169/bobandcat/2008%20gen%20enclosure/12test26001600wattloads.jpg
2600/1600 WATT DATA
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g169/bobandcat/2008%20gen%20enclosure/13test2200wattload.jpg
2200 WATT DATA
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g169/bobandcat/2008%20gen%20enclosure/1FRTVIEW.jpg
GENERATOR OVERVIEW
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g169/bobandcat/2008%20gen%20enclosure/2FANSIDE.jpg
COOLING EXHAUST FAN
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g169/bobandcat/2008%20gen%20enclosure/3FUELTANKROTATED.jpg
FUEL TANK ROTATED
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g169/bobandcat/2008%20gen%20enclosure/4REARVIEW.jpg
BACK OF ENCLOSURE
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g169/bobandcat/2008%20gen%20enclosure/5FRONTCLOSEUP.jpg
HOT AIR EXIT (ORANGE)
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g169/bobandcat/2008%20gen%20enclosure/6TOPVIEW.jpg
EXHAUST PIPE INSULATION
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g169/bobandcat/2008%20gen%20enclosure/7ENGINEDUCT.jpg
ENGINE AIR INTAKE DUCT
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g169/bobandcat/2008%20gen%20enclosure/8ENGINEDUCTMOUNTING.jpg
DUCT MOUNTING
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g169/bobandcat/2008%20gen%20enclosure/9GENHEADDUCT.jpg
GENHEAD AIR INTAKE DUCT
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g169/bobandcat/2008%20gen%20enclosure/10GENHEADAUXILIARYCOOLINGFAN.jpg
GENHEAD AUXILIARY COOLING FAN
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g169/bobandcat/2008%20gen%20enclosure/11GENHEADHEATSHIELD.jpg
GENHEAD HEAT SHIELD
RE: 3000W Chinese Gensets Info.
I know this isn't a 3000 watt Chinese genset, but it is probably Chinese built. Check out this offer from Costco.
http://www.costco.com/Browse/Product.aspx?whse=BC&topnav=&prodid=11217701&ec=BC-EC877-CatHome&pos=15&lang=en-US#shipinfo
If I was just starting my generator quest, I would probably buy this ONAN 4300 watt electric start inverter genset rated at 62 dBA for only $1300.
RE: 3000W Chinese Gensets Info.
Professor95 & MrWizard,
Thanks for the kind words. Unfortunately, I didn’t have the space to use the glass door from the microwave. Interesting idea though!
I hope that someone takes the time to answer my genhead temp request. This has been a fun quest for me. It helps fill the need to use my engineering skills during retirement.
As you may remember, my first enclosure completed about 2 ½ years ago was just an aluminum case with noise absorption matting on the interior walls and an open bottom. This worked fine for my 3 month Alaskan adventure in a cool climate where A/C wasn’t necessary very much.
When I return back to AZ, I added an automatic transfer switch and a small cooling exhaust fan to the top of the enclosure. That fan was very inadequate and is now re-purposed into the booster cooling fan for the genhead.
My next iteration added the 300 cfm exhaust fan to the side of the enclosure. It worked very well, but I was still concerned that the AVR & genhead weren’t getting enough cool air and hot air re-circulation wasn’t controlled with the bottom still completely open. Of course, the gas tank was still in the enclosure and was also a concern.
That led me to the latest design detailed in this forum. This will probably be the last enclosure design for the generator except for the improvements noted. It meets my 5ver electrical needs in the AZ climate.
RE: 3000W Chinese Gensets Info.
The following describes my latest enclosure. It incorporates some of the ideas of Brad, Professor Randy, Floyd and others who have contributed their knowledge on enclosures. I posted a sketch of my design on Brad’s enclosure forum about 6 months ago. Materials were “re-purposed” as much as possible while building this iteration. It has been in use for the last couple of months. I concluded that this enclosure was good to about 100 degrees ambient at 2000 watts generator output. This is enough to run my 5ver’s 15k BTU A/C unit. At this ambient temperature, it is necessary to shut the AC off to run the microwave. The combination of the two requires about 3200 watts. Testing showed that my Champion genset reached its maximum output of 2900 watts at 100 degrees ambient. Running both loads together resulted in the engine rpm lugging down and the voltage dropping from 120v to 103v. Frequency also was reduced due to the loss of engine rpm but was not measured.
Now, the disclaimer:
THIS ENCLOSURE WAS BUILT SOLELY FOR THE USE OF THE WRITER. OTHERS WHO ATTEMPT TO BUILD A SIMILAR ENCLOSURE DO SO AT THEIR OWN RISK. VARIATIONS IN THE DESIGN AND USE OF THE ENCLOSURE INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO AIRFLOW, GENERATOR LOAD, AMBIENT TEMPERATURE, ALTITUDE, EXHAUST TEMPS, AND NOISE ABATEMENT WILL AFFECT THE ABILITY OF THE ENCLOSURE TO SAFELY HOUSE THE GENERATOR.
The main reason for this latest iteration was to move the gas tank out of the enclosure and have it located in a lower temperature environment. Last winter my wife’s microwave oven decided to quit working. I disassembled the corpse for useful parts. The outer housing was steel measuring 25” long, 17” deep and 14” high or just the right size to house the engine and generator head of my Champion genset. The fuel tank and control panel were raised 6” to allow clearance to the top of the new enclosure. Miscellaneous openings in the rear panel of the re-purposed microwave housing were covered with metal foil tape except for one opening located below of the engine air cleaner inlet to allow intake of cool engine combustion air.
The fuel hose and electrical wiring were routed through the rear panel of the enclosure. The rear panel separates from the rest of the enclosure and stays with the generator when the enclosure is removed. This allows for quick removal of the enclosure for any work needed on the genset or to operate the generator without the enclosure. With the enclosure installed, the front enclosure panel slides sideways to allow for checking the oil, operating the choke and using the recoil starter.
To improve airflow and reduce cooling air re-circulation, the bottom of the enclosure was closed and air intake ducts were fabricated for the engine and generator head. The generator head duct inlet also had a booster fan incorporated to improve the cooling airflow through the generator head. Tests confirmed that the 300 cfm exhaust fan produced a negative pressure inside of the enclosure. Enclosure openings and clearance slots were sealed to force almost all of the air to enter through the cooling air ducts except for the air cleaner intake air opening in the rear of the enclosure.
The exhaust piping inside the compartment was insulated with high temp fiberglass insulation re-purposed from an oven to reduce heat load in the compartment. The muffler was insulated and wrapped to reduce heat transfer and noise. A piece of 1/4” thick hardbacker board was added between the insulated exhaust pipe and the genhead to reduce the exhaust heat load on the generator windings.
Tests were conducted to measure the capabilities of this enclosure. These were completed at an average ambient temperature of 98 degrees at 1470 feet above sea level. The unit was in a shaded environment to eliminate sun load, which in Arizona can add 30 degrees to the surface temperature of an enclosure or fuel tank. Electrical loads were 2600 watts and 1600 watts for the first test and 2200 watts for the second test.
During the first test, the generator ran for 30 minutes at 2600 watts before it started to stumble. The load was immediately and arbitrarily reduced to 1600 watts by turning off the leaf blower and leaving the air compressor load running. The test continued for another 30 minutes without any further problems with the maximum temperatures dropping and stabilizing. At 1600 watts, the air temp above the engine stabilized at 160 degrees, above the genhead at 140 degrees and enclosure exit air at 150 degrees. Test time was 60 minutes under load, 15 minutes running with cooling fans load (110watts) and 15 minutes with the engine off and cooling fans running. Enclosure cooling was extremely effective after the engine was stopped and the cooling fans continued running.
The second test was completed at an electrical load of 2200 watts. It was terminated after temps were stable for 4 consecutive readings taken at 5-minute intervals. Total test time was 45 minutes under load and 15 minutes for cool down with the engine off and the enclosure cooling fans running. The stabilized engine air, genhead air and exiting air temperatures were 156, 145 and 152 degrees respectively measured in the same locations as the first test.
The fuel tank temperature after the tests was between 110 and 118 degrees. Under direct sun load, it would have been in the 140 degrees range and probably 150 degrees if it was still mounted inside of the generator enclosure.
Temperature graphs and other data from the tests are included along with the pictures. The pictures were taken while the generator and enclosure were mounted on a temporary test stand base.
This design was a success for me in that it allowed me to operate my RV air conditioning at 100 degrees ambient with the enclosed generator. At a 75-80 degree ambient, both the A/C and the microwave can be run together for short periods probably due to reduced air conditioning power requirement and increased generator output. The maximum electrical load at high ambient temps should be limited to about 1800-2000 watts. My 5ver’s A/C and enclosure cooling fans use about 1800 watts at 100 degrees ambient. Of course, the refrigerator and hot water tank are on propane and the battery charger is turned off while the generator is being used for the A/C at high ambient temperatures.
Someone may have noticed that I continue to run the 120v cooling fans after stopping the generator. This is accomplished by using a 2500-watt inverter and RV batteries. The inverter is wired into the generator control panel. The 3 way toggle switch on the panel acts as a transfer switch with one position for the 120v generator, center position off, and the other position for the 110v inverter. This also allows me to use the inverter to run the microwave and entertainment system in the RV through the same wiring that the generator uses.
Sound reduction was not a priority with this enclosure. I am satisfied that it is in the low 60’s dBA (by subjective evaluation). If I would try to lower the noise level further, I would add ¼” thick hardbacker to all of the enclosure’s surfaces. This would add about 20 lbs. to the enclosure.
Future improvements will include a 160-degree enclosure air temp automatic generator shut down switch and improved exhaust piping temperature insulation. Brad noted that his exhaust pipe insulation was cool enough to touch. Mine isn’t. If I can get the insulation surface temperature cool enough (like Brad’s), I will remove the hardbacker heat barrier between the exhaust and the genhead.
Finally, I will consider switching to a dual fuel system of propane and gasoline following Professor Randy’s instructions in his propane conversion thread.
Now, here is a request for temperature data.
The generator head temperatures were measured during the second test just after the 2200-watt load was removed. The temperature was a respectable 123 degrees near the AVR but 190 degrees on the sheet metal windings cover near the top of the genhead by the long mounting bolt on the exhaust side of the genhead.
I am requesting that forum readers with the Champion 3500 watt generator in its original factory configuration measure the temperature of their genhead at this same location (see picture for the exact location) after about 30 minutes of operation and either send their temp info to me in a PM or just report it in this forum.
I would like to confirm that the 190-degree temp at this location is typical of the OEM configuration due to both the engine and muffler heat load on the genhead. If this temp is not typical, I will address the exhaust pipe insulation improvement soon.
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g169/bobandcat/2008%20gen%20enclosure/12test26001600wattloads.jpg
2600/1600 WATT DATA
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g169/bobandcat/2008%20gen%20enclosure/13test2200wattload.jpg
2200 WATT DATA
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g169/bobandcat/2008%20gen%20enclosure/1FRTVIEW.jpg
GENERATOR OVERVIEW
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g169/bobandcat/2008%20gen%20enclosure/2FANSIDE.jpg
COOLING EXHAUST FAN
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g169/bobandcat/2008%20gen%20enclosure/3FUELTANKROTATED.jpg
FUEL TANK ROTATED
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g169/bobandcat/2008%20gen%20enclosure/4REARVIEW.jpg
BACK OF ENCLOSURE
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g169/bobandcat/2008%20gen%20enclosure/5FRONTCLOSEUP.jpg
HOT AIR EXIT (ORANGE)
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g169/bobandcat/2008%20gen%20enclosure/6TOPVIEW.jpg
EXHAUST PIPE INSULATION
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g169/bobandcat/2008%20gen%20enclosure/7ENGINEDUCT.jpg
ENGINE AIR INTAKE DUCT
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g169/bobandcat/2008%20gen%20enclosure/8ENGINEDUCTMOUNTING.jpg
DUCT MOUNTING
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g169/bobandcat/2008%20gen%20enclosure/9GENHEADDUCT.jpg
GENHEAD AIR INTAKE DUCT
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g169/bobandcat/2008%20gen%20enclosure/10GENHEADAUXILIARYCOOLINGFAN.jpg
GENHEAD AUXILIARY COOLING FAN
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g169/bobandcat/2008%20gen%20enclosure/11GENHEADHEATSHIELD.jpg
GENHEAD HEAT SHIELD
RE: 3000W Chinese Gensets Info.
I finally read the EBAY auction today for "walkers2rad" inverter genset.
I see the new trick the advertisers are using is to rate the engine HP in watts. The customer will think that this is the electrical output from the generator. The marketing folks get you again!
The 3000 watt advertised unit (2600 watts electrical output per the specs.) is really only a 2250 watt output generator per Ray's testing. I also noticed that they warrant the engine for 3 years but the generator for only 30 days. Thanks for all of the info, Ray.
RE: 3000W Chinese Gensets Info.
Has anyone tried the hardbacker board for noise control in a generator compartment? How well did it work?
Professor95 suggested using it quite a while back and I don't remember seeing any positive or negative reports about it.
RE: Portable Generators
Go to '3000W Chinese Gensets Info.' forum in the tech topic area.
Professor95 had posted info on using cement based backing board as an inexpensive, fireproof sound enclosure. Also, don't even try to quiet the 'contractor model' generator. They're too loud from the get-go.
Chinese generators like the Champion RV ready model have a large muffler and are inexpensive to buy at Home Depot, Lowes, Caraba's, Tractor Supply and some auto parts stores. They are a good bet for reliable, low cost unit. Champion has proven customer service support. I wouldn't recommend many other Chinese units unless they are backed by a good name brand.
If you can't find Professor95's original post, Just PM him. He is a good source of info and very helpful.
RE: PullRite Hitches
To improve the security of my hitch, I replaced all of the 1/2" pins with grade 5 bolts and elastic stop nuts. If someone wants to steal my hitch, they have to take the time to remove those nuts. I figure it would take about 5 minutes to remove the 4 lock nuts using a ratchet in contrast to about 5 seconds to remove the OEM pins. If you want further security, you can install lug bolt locks that are normally used to prevent your fancy wheels from being stolen. Both are available at either a hardware store or auto parts store.
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g169/bobandcat/100_7333.jpg
RE: Towing with Short Bed
If you leave your hitch slider in the rearward position, no matter how level your TV may look using the airbags, you have greatly reduced your steering and braking ability by taking the weight off of your TV front axle.
Your pin weight should not be any further rearward than right over your rear TV axle or preferably 2" forward of the rear axle.
RE: Lubrication of superglide
Contact Pullrite via e-mail and they will e-mail their detailed instructions for applying the SlipPlate to your hitch. You can get a good price from either Granger or go to the SlipPlate website and buy directly from them.
RE: Suggestions on Extended Warranties? Just lost mine!
When buying a truck or RV or service contract, most sales personnel will mislead you as much as necessary to get the sales commission.
In this case, they will call a 'service contract' an 'extended warranty' if that helps sell it. Most buyers won't bother to read the fine print until they need service and are told that the needed service is "not covered under the terms of the service contract".
If you are mechanically capable, do your own repairs as much as possible and save the aggravation of dealing with the service contract company that is looking for reasons not to pay for a repair.
If you are mechanically or physically challenged, shop very carefully for a good contract by reading the fine print, find good customer feedback, and then of course a fair price the service contract.
I personally will do my own repair work as long as I am physically capable.
RE: generator exhaust system
If you still decide to try doing this, check this link http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/20606145/gotomsg/21114609.cfm#21114609 to see the needed modifications. It would also be better to use a Champion 3500 watt or similar generator.
RE: 3000W Chinese Gensets Info.
Ever fear being without a back up source of power, in an emergency OR
having convenience for camping???
Generator for $299.00 plus tax, not a bad deal in itself...
http://www.partsamerica.com/productdetail.aspx?MfrCode=CPE&MfrPartNumber=C46540&CategoryCode=3483C&SID=sduidp0t769413
A 15% discount coupon, with a little chicanery and a very small purchase (returnable later) , a 25% discount !
(read the posts)
http://www.fatwallet.com/t/18/695710
$150.00 Rebate
http://cskautoinc.rebatestatus.com/displaypdf.aspx?GFmCPCipleQGLQ6KLP3ff/qlBF4b/ps0fK0iLbBpjg8=
Good Grief! Can you say a NET cost of $91.63 ??? (after purchase, san diego tax of 7.75 percent, and
rebate)
If I didn't have my 7000 watt electric start beast, I'd bag a spare for emergencies!
Act fast, the deal runs out on March 29...
Ron
Be advised.
I received an e-mail from partsamerica/Checker that they would not honor the rebate if the customer had received MULTIPLE DISCOUNTS on the Champion at the store. One was OK (re: 25% customer survey discount). Doing the price match and the 25% discount coupon would void the $150 rebate per their e-mail.
Good luck if you try. Hope it works for you.
Here is their actual response:
Dear Madam or Sir,
Thank you for visiting PartsAmerica.com and taking the time to contact us.
Yes, however, only one coupon can be used in conjunction with the rebate. If 2 or more discount offers were made on the same transaction, the rebate is null & void.
If you have any further questions please contact us via e-mail or toll free at 877.808.0698. Thank you.
Sincerely,
Bryan
Partsamerica.com
AskTheExperts
877-808-0698
CSK Technical Assistance
800-422-7727
RE: 3000W Chinese Gensets Info.
I was under the notion that inverter generators had some sort of momentary storage (e.g. large capacitor) that allow for the increased draw in current until the engine could rev up to the needed supply requirements.
Is that incorrect?
My understanding is that "large capacitor" is the genset's battery. I read this in an inverter generator forum. Yamaha was the first to add the stored power of the 12v battery to overcome short duration startup power surge needs for starting AC units, etc.
RE: 3000W Chinese Gensets Info.
Floyd,
I seem to remember in one of Generator-guy's posts that the Champion style gensets have the ability to supply high amperage for microseconds due to the stored energy of their rotating mass at 3600 rpm. Most of the slower running inverter gensets can't match this momentary output that in turn allows the Champion style gesets to start high initial current draw appliances like RV air conditioners. Hopefully, these comments will get some of our heavy hitters talking.
By the way, what ever happened to Generator-guy? If you are out there lurking again, how about chiming in. I mean no disrespect to Professor95, Mrwizard and the other knowledgeable contributors of this forum. However, in Generator-guy's brief 10-12 day emersion into this forum, he did make many good contributions.
